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Yes!

The body is reviewed here: ruclips.net/video/sqPSwvvxzdc/видео.html and should answer most of it... and thanks for watching

Thanks Tony, I don't know why I didn't get a notification.

Ha maybe I don't agree with that :) I tend to think about all those greats - Hendrix Page Satch Malmsteen, Vai, EVH and so many more that 'got along' with just those flintstone wheels :). But its a good point I did not raise in the video so thanks for the post and for watching.

@@tonymckenziecom good vs bad company strategy. good strategy is nike bacause it has a buy now button. fender on the other hand doesn't, so they shoot at their feet with website where nobody can actually buy. similarly steve vai had indeed one of his jems in TRUE TEMPERAMENT, but he only got it because he is famous the company is not selling true temperament fretboard for my ibanez jem evo. they are incredible greedy overexpensive and they don't have social media as to approach. no live chat. just silence. but their necks sucks. their headstock too. their fretboards are great, but THERE IS NO COMMUNICATION. is like you want to speak with madonna and you just cannot reach. only VIP can. that is not how you run a company. for a entire decade true temperament has been in silence, in the dark. there is no owner showing his face, talking, that i know of. the google images were few and bad quality. and they even contradicted themselves by offering 3 types of tunings. but still i maneged to DIY my own true temperament frets. hitting with hammer. drilling the slots with sewing needles, going to a chrome factory, using different % of zooms in photocopies in order to compensate the always angles photos from google images. it took the company forever to publish better photos ( after i did my homemade true temperament frets ) i scalloped this fretboard, but not symmetrical, but like the nike logo, that's deeper near the fret, ergonomic. there is no scalloped true temperament fretboard in the market. what i did should be replicated in one piece titanium to screw. but in order to do that i should send my unique neck+ fretboard to some chinese factory in order to take the mold. i used to play acoustic guitar in open tunings, like 7 random DIFFERENT tunings everyday, for a decade, in total probably i tried 500 different tunings. i had one favourite in particular, but i don't remember. it involved a thicker flatbound 6th string, then the 5th string was tuned 7 semitones higher than the 6th string, then i would skip the midfle octave and so the top 4 strings were quite close in pitch, like 2 or 3 semitones of jump to each other. it was a variation of hawaiian wahine tuning, so that the harmonics at 7th and 12 (5) did the scale phrygian dominant. if i had acoustic guitar, i would investigate how to make true temperament for that mysterious forgotten tuning. who is behind true temperament? is he a sociopath? sure his company failed, because he is closed minded, unreachable. his frets are too thin. in the website they claim they tried titanium "but was worst" pardon? i don't believe it. but there is no comminication. no personalization, ( unless you are a wealthy celebrity). if they patented, the patents expires within 15 years. the idea is great, but the mass has conservative thinking. if fender, gibson and martin produced true temperament fret option, it would be accepted. and those big companies are not doing it probably because the true temperament ceo is an aa ss hh oo ll ee.

@@tonymckenziecom i DIY my own true temperament with assymetrical scalloped frets from early bad google photos by using diiferent zoom % of photocopies in order to compensate the perspective's angles. i did the fret cavities using needles in a holded drilling machine. that company is overexpensive, with bad communication and ugly necks. the other companies like warmouth are not offering TT option. nor fender, gibson and martin. that's what you get when you are a ceo that never shows up. no communication. no face. no chat. no social media. only cold buy or not buy. actually steve vai got a TT for his evo, but i cannot buy the same for my evo because i am not a celebrity. it was one of a kind, and steve vai moved on because TT is greedy. way too greedy. even more thsn steve vai himself. it is a shoot in the foot. bad strategies for a company. that is not how you run a company. i guess their patent has expired. patents only lasts fifteen years. they don't offer true temperament frets for other tunings in example wahine. and their weird "blues" and "formula 1" alternative micro tunings are a contradiction.

@@tonymckenziecom i DIY a true temperament in assymetrical scalloped neck. i should send this to a china factory so they could recreate a one piece titanium fretboard to screw. i did it from early bad google photos and guessing with different % of zooms of photocopies, hammering, then went to chrome factory. i drilled the cavities using needles. holding a fret over a flat fretboard with strings tuned you can find the proper slant with accuracy by testing with tc electronics unitone by taking in account the note is a bit sharp because the fret is too tall. warmouth should give the option of necks without the fret cavities. and true temperament's probably has expired. the owner of the company passed away 2 years ago.

@@tonymckenziecom the problems with that company are that they are not selling the frets, but fretboards or necks. they are overexpensive the guy passed away 2 years ago i DIY mine, though.

Correct. Warmoth among many others vary the neck specs. Thanks for watching too...

Oh, one more thing ... very important actually -> Be VERY careful what oils you use to "treat" your neck. Rosewood is a naturally oily wood and genuinely needs absolutely no additional "oils" for upkeep. You can buff it out with a microfiber cloth and it'll look brand new in basically every scenario outside of physical damage. Many oils have drying agents, and these actually oxidize the shit out of rosewood and turn it just basically black. Not in a "cool" ebonized way, but in a "it looks dirty and grungy" way. Stuff like linseed oil, "lemon oil" (real lemon oil is great lol, but youre probably not getting that in most cases) and all that other nonsense have these properties and will basically "ruin" your neck. Murphy's oil soap is pretty good to clean dirty necks, some naptha if its really grimey. Stuff like mineral oil is ... useless. It's like putting tire shine gel on your bald tires; just makes it shiny for a bit haha. Probably actively harms the wood too, but I dont know enough to speak completely on that subject. Stuff like "teak oil" or "tung oil finish" are polyurethanes mixed with linseed and tung oil + the driers, so its again not suitable here. Its astounding how much "bad" info is propagated about this topic. In most cases, cedar oil is probably the best bet, but its expensive. Lasts a long time tho. PURE tung oil would be best but it takes quite some time to properly absorb and dry (we're talking weeks here). "Tung oil finish" is just polyurethane mixed with tung oil, and it is absolutely not the same thing even a little bit. But as mentioned, some oil soap and a buff with a microfiber will resolve 99% of issues. Would take some serious abuse before Id consider oiling a neck ... thats full of oil already lol

Hi JG this is a very useful post and great info and points raised. Its the first time I have seen ANY variance on the neck at the body end and I have to say I was surprised a lot about that. To mess about sending back is really too much hard work from here in the UK. But I hope many see that and don't just assume that everything fits everything. This neck was pre made and I'll certainly do some measuring and I might make a short video about that - which I'm sure would be great for some guys out there. On frets I did once get stainless steel but hard work on any work to do on those. I have opted for the 'gold' ones a few times and they are I think better than Stainless. On alignment I'm OK with that, but great that you post the answers for it. Like I said - a really good and informative post... and where I come from that is what matters because it passes on info to any guys that watch the video. Regards and thanks for watching.

@@tonymckenziecom yea, it being a warmoth, id personally gjve them the benefit of the doubt. I personally am curious of the measurements, ive only used warmoth necks that came on an existing guitar. Im normally an all-parts guy due to cost ratios lol, but every warmoth ive touched was quality.

@@tonymckenziecom and yeah, i figured you would know how to align a neck lol. Its just a weird thing a lot of people skip over sometimes.

Thanks for the info and for watching...

I keep saying I'll look at Mighty Mite... I'll get there... and thanks for watching.

Link is in the text below the video... ;-) and thanks for watching.

@@tonymckenziecom Thank you!!!

Eh he just does that to provide an objective way to showcase it on the video. The reality is .. use your hand and if its "Sharp" then you dont need a stocking to tell you youre not crazy lol.

I have tried many times to remove my wife's tights :) Thanks for watching.

Ha I know... I was being 'generous' about it. Indeed your description is typical of what I 'normally' see from Warmoth. I'll be looking carefully at this one for sure and thanks for watching.

That logic doesn't really follow. First, there's no way a neck that's even very firmly pressed against only the upper side of a Fender style neck pocket won't pull horizontally up or down ever so slightly. In fact, the vibrational friction between the neck and that upper side may absorb more string energy than if it weren't touching the upper side at all. It can also still shift down vertically if it is against that upper side. Even if the neck is pulled firmly against the back side of the pocket, which I do recommend, it won't necessarily resist any vertical or horizontal pressure that is amplified exponentially by the neck length. The best way to restrict vertical neck shift is to have both surfaces dry and maybe roughed up with course sandpaper, or you might even put some sand in there if it's problem. Indian RW is very oily. It might shift more easily than raw Maple.

Well' you intonate after its together of course - usual way. But it does affect the overall settings I have seen and they at the bridge end are more aligned than when you don't have the Earvana fitted. I do think it does make a difference and have the Earvana fitted to a number of necks. On the Strat builds I usually fit pretty regular Fender style designs for the bridge... the one for this is shown in the body review I did. Thanks for the info. And thanks for watching.

Thanks for that - on this one it's looser than I would have expected in the body, but first time for that and I'll solve it. Thanks for watching too.

Thanks for watching...

Me too. It's great stuff. The orange oil keeps the beeswax slightly viscous and feeling like silk. If you want an Indian Rosewood neck for the punchy tone, you might consider the "Modern" construction option so you can get a Goncalo Alves shaft. It's like East Indian RW (which is nothing special), but not as dark for ~$100 less and has a natural smooth waxy feel. One-piece necks are more likely to have fret sprout because any grain shift is magnified. There's really no tonal advantage. Otherwise, it would be common on acoustic guitars. A glued-on fretboard makes it much more stable. Ziricote is a very nice-looking FB wood that generally damps highs less than Indian RW, but more than Pau Ferro. Arizona Turquoise dots would look very good with that. EVO Gold frets are a good choice, but they only offer 6150 "wide and tall". Ken Parker said they should last at least as long as the Stainless options. I got a few very nice standard thin necks with Stainless frets from a guy on etsy for under $200 each. One was Wenge, but I actually prefer the lacquered Maple. The Wenge tone is too "hard" sounding for my taste, and I got a nasty splinter from it.

@humblegeorge and @GCKelloch Thanks guys for this info. BTW I did buy a neck with a different fretboard wood and it felt a little 'strange' when you play - forget the wood but a common one alternative. I like the maple and rosewoods etc. but some of those other woods are a bit weird. Thanks for watching

@@tonymckenziecom Feel is very important. My experience with Goncalo Alves is that it feels very smooth. I don't know about Ziricote, but I have two Pau Ferro (Bolivian Rosewood) FB's that I use Feed-N-Wax on a few times a year, and they feel smooth. I also use it on necks. It's particularly good on my non-lacquered or Tru-Oiled Maple necks. Should be great on any raw RW, GA, Ebony, etc. Indian RW is fine if 4kHz+ sparkle isn't important to you, and your pickups don't deliver it anyway.

@@GCKelloch I have heard about the splinters !!! Clear coating should help,,,,,IF,,,,,the wood can be cleared.But again there is something about the real honest wood.I cleared a Violin years ago and it looked wonderful,,,,sounded like a cat in a suitcase. Thank you for re-commenting GCKelloch.

Ha I'll solve it one way or another :) Thanks for watching...

I like Warmoth and have used them since 2010 always OK. Thanks for watching.

Great to hear you... and thanks for watching.

Thanks for the info... I'll be looking close at this one. And thanks for watching.

That's an interesting choice for sure. I have considered the LP style of guitar a few times re Warmoth, but stuck to the 'easy' stuff :) (so far). Thanks for watching.

Thanks for the opinion as a Warmoth customer! That always matters. Historically they (the necks) did have some fret ends that were a bit off, but I have not really seen them with that issue for many years. Thanks for watching too.

:) Oh I agree - the neck really contributes to that feel and playability. I'll see how it all works out on this guitar. There are some differing pickups too that will be interesting when that video comes on later. Thanks for the post and for watching as always.

Good point and one I did not mention... Ha when making the videos its hard to get everything in the video. Thanks for watching.

Exactly. The stuff is not particularly cheap if you opt for all those options. But you can create some brilliant necks for sure - or bodies! Thanks for watching

Great to hear. I am not perfect (my wife confirms :) but I do try hard to show the reality of the amps and other stuff as best I can. I make them exactly for you :) Thanks for watching and those kind words.

You're 'hanging' with the wrong crowds :) and I agree - however when you're reviewing close up to create as decent a review as I can, the tiny manual on the cell phone certainly does not work. The printed manual for that purpose is perfect and I do that for most in depth reviews. There is so much detail that otherwise you really don't always see if its not printed. Good point, but now you know why I say it :) an thanks for watching.

There is a link in the text to the full review and I think there's playing on there too. Thanks for watching.

In reality its not that bad. It IS playable, but of course rolling the finger board and adding a bit more to the fret ends by way of work always will improve the feel. But it was not really that bad especially for the money and that it was Mexican - which some dislike. Overall probably worth the money. And thanks for watching.

Clearly there is a rectifying circuit... thanks

@@tonymckenziecom Yes It's probably that Power smoothing Bit you pointed out

Ha ask them - they seem to be the experts... thanks.

I have refrained generally from most Chinese guitars as every single time they either send me junk, or worse so I just buy now what I know will be OK. Thanks for watching.